Water heater repair: how to independently replace a blown heater and other details

Accumulative water heaters, allowing to ensure the operation of an autonomous hot water supply system in a house or apartment, fail over time. Most often, the cause of the malfunction of this type of equipment is associated with the burnout of the heating element inside the tank. A heater may burn out if the device is turned on without water. Although many manufacturers of water heaters exclude the likelihood of such a situation due to design solutions. Therefore, most often the heating element ceases to function due to the development of its resource. The duration of operation of a storage water heater is affected by the intensity of its use, the quality of the incoming water, and the maximum temperature of its heating. If an RCD is triggered when the electric heater is turned on or the water simply does not heat up, then the condition of the heating element must be checked.

Visual inspection of the heating element

Having disconnected the household electrical appliance from the network and draining water from it, proceed to disassemble it. Having taken out the heating element, clean its shell from scale, if any. With a thorough inspection of the heating elements pay attention to the integrity of the shell parts.

If a visual inspection reveals the presence of cracks or tears in the outer shell, then the part can be safely thrown into the scrap, since it will not be possible to repair it. In this case, it is possible to restore the operability of the water heater only by installing a new heating element.

The outer shell of the overheated heating element is torn to shreds. Usually, tena made from substandard materials fail.

Checking the health of the heater using a tester

If a visual inspection of the heater did not give results, then do not rush to rejoice that everything is in order with the part. Most likely, a spiral break occurred inside the heating element, which is impossible to see, since the outer shell is intact and does not have any obvious defects.

Check this version will help a regular household tester, which needs to ring the heating element itself, as well as a thermostat, if this element is provided in the design of the water heater. In most models, thermostats are installed by manufacturers without fail.

First check the integrity of the nichrome spiral inside the heating element. Transferring the tester to the ringer position, connect its terminals to the terminals of the part under test. The spiral of the heating element is operational if a bell is heard at the moment of connecting the terminals. If the tester does not make a sound, then the spiral has a break.Such a heating element can not be repaired, you have to change it.

The part is also subject to replacement in case of breakdown. To detect a breakdown in the insulation, disconnect one of the terminals of the tester and move it along the shell of the heating element. The presence of a sound signal will indicate that a breakdown is taking place. Such a heater is also thrown away.

Diagnostics of a heating element (heating element) installed in a water heater using a tester or a digital multimeter. The device allows you to accurately determine the malfunction of the part

After checking the efficiency of the heating element, proceed to testing the thermostat. After inserting the part into the heater, connect the terminals of the tester with the terminals of the thermostat used to supply electricity. Hearing a characteristic call, they conclude that the thermostat is working. Otherwise, the burned-out thermostat is replaced, and for this you do not even need to drain the water. The panel is removed from the boiler disconnected from electricity, all connecting wires are disconnected from the thermostat, a new water heating temperature controller is installed, all contacts are restored.

The operation of a faulty water heater is fraught with sad consequences, since there is a high probability of electric shock.

How to replace the heater in a water heater?

To carry out repairs, a screwdriver, pliers, keys, tester, as well as rags and napkins are useful. The procedure for replacing an old heater in a water heater consists of several sequentially performed steps:

• disconnection of a water heater from a network;
• draining all water from the tank (a description of the draining process is available in the product passport);
• dismantling the water heater (you can replace without removing the device from the wall, if convenient);
• dismantling the cap (outer cover) covering the electrical part of the household appliance;
• loosening the bolts (nuts) of the flange holding the heating element during its operation;
• accurate removal of the heater from the tank (it is recommended to carry out over a bucket or basin in order to avoid the ingress of water with sediment on the floor);
• checking the performance of the heating element (inspection, ringing);
• descaling the inner tank and rinsing it with a stream of water;
• installation of a new heating element of the same power (it is recommended to purchase spare parts in specialized stores, paying attention to workmanship, since fakes quickly burn out);
• proper connection of all connecting wires (if you are replacing it yourself, take a picture of all connections before disassembling);
• installation of a protective cap;
• connection of a water heater to a water supply system and an electric network;
• elimination of leaks, if any;
• putting the switch in working condition after the tank is completely filled with water.

When removing a burned-out heater, difficulties may arise in the event of severe deformation.

The procedure for removing the heating element from the body of the storage water heater is not for felidae. The tank and all internal parts are washed out of scale and precipitate

How to increase the life of the heating element?

We have made a number of recommendations for you:

• When buying a storage electric water heater, you should carefully study the installation instructions and follow the product operating rules. Remember that the device must never be turned on with an empty tank.
• To soften the tap water, a magnesium anode is installed in the boilers. This round rod prevents the formation of hard scale on the surface of the heating element. Accepting a "blow to himself", the anode quickly collapses. Timely replacement of this spare part will protect the heater and tank from the negative effects of hard water.
• Special filters installed directly in front of the device will help to improve the quality of the water entering the water heater.It is even better if tap or borehole water is purified from mechanical and other impurities by multi-stage filtration equipment.
• For early detection of problems, it is recommended to conduct a routine inspection of a household appliance at least once a year. When replacing parts, you should purchase high-quality spare parts produced by the same manufacturer or company licensed to produce analog products.
• To prolong the operation of the heating element can be due to the economical use of its resource. Do not set the thermostat to maximum values, otherwise the heater will heat the water for a long time, and then turn on more often to warm the contents of the tank to the set temperature.

How to replace the anode in a water heater?

The magnesium anode is mounted separately on the flange of the heating element in the immediate vicinity. When water is heated, magnesium, being a more active metal compared to iron, enters into electrochemical reactions with compounds of heavy metals in water. In addition, magnesium, by binding oxygen released during the heating of water, provides tread protection of equipment. As a result of such activity, the magnesium anode collapses rather quickly. Replacing this part, it is possible to extend the period of operation of the heating element.

Repair work is carried out approximately according to the same algorithm as when replacing a heater in a water heater. First, disconnect the device from the network, then shut off the water and drain the contents of the tank into the sewer. Using conventional tools, they remove the decorative panel and get to the flange on which the magnesium rod and the heating element are fixed.

View of a new magnesium anode and a worn-out storage heater worn out after a short operation. The harder the water, the faster this part is destroyed

The flange is removed, the anode is inspected and, with extensive damage, is replaced by a new part. At the same time, the worn out rod is twisted, and the spare part bought in a specialized store is screwed into the vacant seat. Flushing the tank from scale, assemble the equipment in the reverse order. When choosing a magnesium anode, pay attention to the length and diameter of the part, as well as to the dimensions of the threaded rod.

Can I repair the boiler myself?

All repair work described above can be carried out independently without the involvement of private craftsmen, who require a considerable fee for their services. It will be possible to save for sure, but you will have to tinker yourself. Do not repair your own water heater, which is under warranty. Such a boiler must be delivered to a service center, where the product will be repaired for free, provided that the product is used correctly.